10 Chamonix Mid-Grade Alpine Classics
Ten of the best mid grade Chamonix alpine routes across the Massif
When writing the previous article about some of the best AD/D grade alpine routes in the massif I realized that there was a notable separation of difficulty that occurred around the D/D+ mark. These routes tended to be more rock based and of a much larger scale than some of the others in the list and edge their way towards Grand Courses status (I’m sure a lot of them are considered Grand Courses by many – they are certainly pretty big!) but achievable for the majority of Alpinists.
Ten routes particularly stood out as great experiences and as milestones in their corner of the Massif, so rather than do a mini-guide at this grade, this is a list of routes that are a must for any Alpinist climbing in the Mont Blanc Massif operating at the standard. It is also a good aspirational list for multiple trips (it would be good going doing them all in one summer!) that would allow exploration of the many corners of range and provide some very memorable experiences.
They are listed in no particular order and as a bonus I have also included some esoteric alternatives at the end.
1) Frendo Spur (D+)
The classic summer line on the north face of the Aiguille du Midi. It overlooks town, is easily accessible from the Plan d’Aiguille and has an easy descent (easier than a lot on this list) but features 1200m of varied climbing taking in difficulties on rock and some snow/ice at the top. Fast teams can do it in a day lift to lift but many will chose to make a bivvi at the top of the rock, getting good frozen snow conditions in the morning. It’s a cool spot for a bivvi too!
Best time to climb:
Late spring to early summer. The Midi north face is prone to rockfall later in the season that can affect the approach and the snow conditions at the top can degrade leaving hard ice.
2) Kuffner Arete (D)
Whilst this was in my last article and is almost entirely on snow – it is one of the big classics of the grade in the massif and a must for everyone. Plus it is the best way up Mont Maudit – one of the main 4000ers – and a very aesthetic, long route. It is probably one of the easier on this list too as long as you have good cramponing skills.
Best time to climb:
Early to mid summer. Want good firm snow conditions. The access couloir can get quite dry but is normally climbable anyway with a bit of care.
3) Mer de Glace Face of the Grepon (D+)
The big classic alpine route of the Envers area. This 1000m face is entirely rock based and requires good route finding skills as you weave around the various rock spires of the south face of the Grepon. The physical crux is right below the summit too and pretty airy. Previously this route has been done most often as a big day from the Envers hut but the recently rebuilt Tour Rouge bivvi hut is particularly advantageous for ascents being on the route and allowing some of it to be climbed the day before. For teams in the know, it is possible to abseil the rock route La Soleil Rendezvous avec La Lune from the top of the Grepon to get back to the Envers hut however most teams will continue over the peak and descend the Nantillons glacier.
Best time to climb:
Summer. The limiting factors here are the Bergschrund that can widen a lot later in the season (there are now alternative fixed ropes to the Tour Rouge hut that can be used if this is the case) and the state of the Nantillons Glacier that can be particularly prone to rock and icefall later on.
4) Dru Traverse (D)
The easiest way up the Dru isn’t all that easy but is a big classic in it’s own right and is the main reason most will visit the quiet Charpoua basin. Plus the Petit Dru is one of the most famous peaks of the Alps and definitely deserves to be climbed. This route is pretty much all rock based and has some great climbing on high quality orange granite with some particularly airy climbing towards the top of the Petit Dru and again climbing up the Z on the Grand Dru.
Best time to climb:
Summer. Towards the end of the season the approach to the start of the route across the glacier can be particularly tormented and sometimes inpassable. Worth checking with the Charpoua hut or La Chamionarde.
5) Arete du Diable (D+)
One of the finest ways up Mont Blanc du Tacul – this aesthetic traverse is all above 4000m once up on the ridge meaning pre acclimatization is a must. Whilst most of the difficulties on the ridge are on rock the approach couloir and final traverse to the summit are on snow meaning good snow conditions are advisable. The route takes in five towers along the way with the last one optional. It is a particularly scenic route with great views across Combe Maudit and the Tacul East Face below.
Best time to climb:
Summer. Early in the season there can be too much snow making it slow going on the rock and later in the season the conditions in the approach couloir can degrade meaning hard ice and the potential for rockfall.
6) Aiguille Republique (D+)
The Chamonix Aiguilles have quite a few good options that could fit on this list, however, the Aiguille Republique stands out as a particularly aesthetic peak in the range. It is arguably THE Chamonix Aiguille. The normal route up this is a bit of an unbalanced affair with a lot of the hard climbing at the top but like the neighboring Mer de Glace Face has some intricate route finding to get there. The first ascent basically used a grappling hook to overcome this hard climbing! Like the Mer de Grace Face, the Tour Rouge Bivvy is particularly advantageous to this route and allows it to easily be broken down over two days – it actually shares the same start as the MDG Face before branching off.
Best time to climb:
Summer. This route has a fairly long season as it is all rock based. The only limiting factor is the size of the Bergschrund that can be wide later in the season – however, as mentioned earlier, the new fixed lines approach to the Tour Rouge allows this to be circumnavigated.
7) Rochefort-Jorasses Traverse (D)
A bit of a double whammy but overall a fantastic traverse that takes in loads of ground and several 4000m peaks. Most teams will do it over two days climbing from the Torino over the classic Rochefort ridge to the Col des Jorasses and staying in the Canzio Bivouac and then continuing along the Jorasses the following day and descending the south face. There is no particular difficulties on the route but the sheer quantity and variety of alpine terrain covered is a good test for any alpinist. A fast team could feasibly do it from an early start in the Torino in a day to the valley but it would be a massive day!
Best time to climb:
Summer. The main limiting factor here is the condition of the descent route. Later in the season the glaciers can be particularly open and the big serac by Pointe Walker can be volatile at any time.
8) Grand Montets Ridge (D+)
Highly visible from Chamonix and a fantastic way to climb the Aiguille Verte, this is a big route and most teams will take two days to climb it, especially since the demise of the top station of the lift system. It takes in both rock along the ridge (with intricate route finding) and the summit slopes on snow before a long descent down the Moine Ridge. Most teams will often bivvi prior to the snow. It also provides fantastic vistas over the wild Nant Blanc arena and the Argentiere Basin.
Best time to climb:
Summer. This route has quite a long climbing period with most of the difficulties on rock and having a fairly reliable descent down the Moine Ridge. The main limiting factor is probably the relatively small time the GM lift is open in the summer (late June to late August).
9) Hirondelles Ridge (D+)
One of the harder routes on this list – the east ridge of Pointe Walker on the Jorasses is an old school classic and features some punchy climbing mostly on rock. It also is a great reason to visit a quiet part of the massif, the Febrouze Glacier, and the excellent Gervasutti Bivouac that looks like the rocket from Tintin. A great way to climb one of the classic mountains of the Alps.
Best time to climb:
Summer. The main limiting factor here, like the Rochefort-Jorasses, is the state of the south face descent and how open the glaciers are as well as on the approach to the route itself.
10) Innominata Arete (D+)
One of the classic routes up Mont Blanc from it’s wild south face – the Innominata has both interesting climbing, high altitude and aesthetic value making it one of the more difficult propositions here. It is most commonly done over two days with a long approach day to the Bivouac Eccles and then the climb and descent down the normal route the following. Some teams may do it from an earlier start from the Monzino Refuge. Out of all the routes on this list it is probably the one with the smallest window so is well worth catching if you can.
Best time to climb:
Early summer. The glaciers on the south side of Mont Blanc are some of the most tormented in the range and the approach to the route can degrade particularly quickly in hot weather meaning earlier in the season is better while the glaciers still have some covering of snow.
Some bonus alternatives for the hipsters out there:
- Brouillard Arete Integral (D+): This massive ridge runs parallel to the Innominata on the south side of Mont Blanc and is longer and takes in more choss and some more 4000m summit.
- Arête Sans Nom (D+): Another of the Aiguille Verte’s ridges, this ridge separates the Nant Blanc from the Charpoua basin and runs from the Dru up. It is quite a big challenge and should not be underestimated with some punchy climbing.
- Charmoz-Grepon (D+): Another Aiguilles classic that almost made the list – it is a historic route with the Mummery crack – at the time one of the harder pitches in the Massif.
- Moine South Ridge Integrale (D+): The main crux of this route is the route finding that is pretty devious. It gives great views though and is a pretty reliable option with easy approach/descent and being on rock.
- NW Ridge of the Blaitiere (D+): Another pretty reliable option in the Aiguilles and a good way of accessing the Fou (beyond the scope of this list). It has easy access and brilliant granite climbing up one of the prominent summits visible from town.
- Arete Ryan (D+): Another Envers entry on the list but which much more fickle conditions than the others. The glacier approach to this route is suffering pretty hard and the Bergschrund can be a little mental. Nonetheless a great way of climbing the Aiguille du Plan.
- Tronchey Arete (TD-): This one breaks the TD mark but only just and is an alternative to the Hirondelles being the other main ridge on the Jorasses climbable from the Val Ferret.
- l’Eveque SW Ridge (D+): Another of the Charpoua basins hidden classics -the Contamine route climbs the north side of L’Eveque, one of the peaks in the Celestial chain there along with the Moine and the Nonne and descends down the Talefre basin. An esoteric trip.
- Renaudie Spur (D+): the classic route up the Dent du Requin that starts not far from the Requin hut provides a similar experience to the Mer de Glace Face but on a smaller scale.
- Troussier Route (D+): An old school classic route on the south face of the Aiguille Ciseaux in the Envers that features beautiful views over the nearby Fou and provides a cool experience in a rarely travelled sector.
More information and topos for these routes can be found in the new Rockfax Chamonix guidebook (https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/chamonix) or across several of the more detailed area specific guidebooks. A lot of info is on CamptoCamp too.