Alpine Guiding
climb classic alpine summits and more
The Alps are synonymous with climbing, going back to Victorian times and the gold rush of mountaineering that took place. The mountains lend themselves to technical climbing, having accessibility that means that most things can be climbed in two days. Whether you want to ascend a famous peak like the Matterhorn, climb splitter granite above the glaciers, hook your way up ephemeral ice smears or take your first steps in mountaineering – there’s plenty to go at.
Below are some ideas for inspiration:
summer Alpinism
The Alps is a vast chain stretching from the Mercantour in the Mediterranean to the Julian Alps in Slovenia, containing peaks up to 4800m high, that are easily accessible thanks to the many alpine base towns that have evolved naturally through the years. Alpinism is the term generally used for technical mountaineering in the alpine regions – it encompasses many things whether you are climbing easy glacial peaks to technical mixed terrain. I can offer guiding tailored to your prior experience levels and aims – whether you have a dream route or summit in mind or simply want to come and experience quality alpine climbing in different areas of the Alps.
Below are some ideas for inspiration:
- 4000m peaks of the Alps: The Alps is home to 82 peaks over 4000m. Climbing all of them is a massive feat – however, climbing at least one should be on most climbers bucket lists. Ranging from easy glacial ascents such as Gran Paradiso in Italy and the Breithorn in Zermatt that are accessible to most, to technical summits that have no easy routes such as the Matterhorn or the Dent Blanche – there is something for most experience levels here.
- Chamonix Alpinism: Chamonix is the mecca for alpine climbing world wide, thanks to history, technical peaks and mostly it’s accessibility. For those wanting to a mixture of day hit alpinism and hut based bigger objectives, it’s the perfect base. It also offers plenty of opportunities for those wanting to gain new skills or push their abilities. Having co-authored the Rockfax guidebook for the area and having spent more than a decade climbing here – it’s an area I know very well. Whether you want to climb classic routes like the Cosmiques Arete or the Entréves Traverse or climb technical summits like the Aiguille Verte or Dru, there’s guiding options for all.
- Eiger, Matterhorn or Mont Blanc: Three summits always spring to mind when they think about climbing in the Alps – Mont Blanc, the Matterhorn and the Eiger. These summits make up the vast majority of people’s guided aims when they come to the Alps and whilst all amazing experiences, often overshadow other, quality objectives. However, for those who dream of climbing the aforementioned summits we can offer guided trips using other appropriate summits to acclimatise first. The Matterhorn and Eiger are a step up and require a bit of prior mountaineering and scrambling experience whereas Mont Blanc’s main difficulties lie in it’s altitude and large summit day – not to be underestimated.
- Technical Alpinism: For those looking to get away from the crowds of the alpine honeypots and explore the lesser known spots of the Alps I can offer guided weeks finding adventurous climbing in new terrain – exploring the alps is a particular passion of mine. Whether we go and climb beautiful summits in the Ecrins such as the Pelvoux or Olan or go and climb technical ridges in the backwaters of the Valais like the Tsalion or Stockhorn south ridge or head to the Vanoise or Bregaglia – the Alps is vast place with a lot to explore!
Available: June - september
Alpine Rock Climbing
For the avid rock climber, the peaks of the Alps are home to a treasure trove of world class rock climbing destinations. Whether aspiring to come and sample the splitter granite cracks and slabs above the glaciers that Chamonix is known for or to climb the immaculate grey limestone that makes up much of the Bernese Oberland and Dolomites – there’s a lifetime of classic routes to sample.
Below are some ideas for inspiration:
- Chamonix Classics: The Mont Blanc massif and neighbouring Aiguilles Rouges are home to a wealth of amazing climbs on fantastic quality of rock – something that differentiates it from the rest of the Alps. Classic day hits such as the Rebuffat route on the south face of the Aiguille du Midi or the Contamine on Pointe Lachenal can be interspersed with overnight trips to destinations like the Envers or Argentiére huts which host numerous wonderful climbs of the highest quality. Bigger objectives such as the Swiss route on the Grand Capucin are also possible for those with the right level.
- Swiss Granite: The Swiss canton of Uri is home to a wealth of world class rock climbing. Between the three passes of Grimsel, Furka and Susten, home to classics like Motorhead at Eldorado and the Graue Wand, to the immaculate Salbitschijen with it’s mighty ridges – the south ridge being a must do for the visiting climber.
- Ecrins Rock: The Hautes Alpes is home to much alpine rock – from the rocky Cerces massif above the Col Lauteret, to the many multi pitch rock climbs around Ailefroide and the Glacier Noir to the unique summit of the Aiguille Dibona in the wild Berarde valley. This area is a popular spot for those looking for variety and less crowds.
- Bregaglia: The Val di Mello is a famous spot for all types of climbing from bouldering to big alpine faces. Classic granite climbs such as Luna Nascente and Ocean Irrazionale draw climbers from all over the world. Combined with the Swiss side of the massif, home to the classic Fiamma accessed from Albigna dam, there’s tons of options. For those looking for bigger options there’s also the summits of the Piz Badile and Piz Cengalo!
- Dolomites: One of Europe’s classic climbing destinations – it’s hard not to love the Dolomites. Here the limestone forms steep walls that are blessed with large holds meaning visually unattainable walls are accessible to most climbers complete with the exposure that comes with them. From the iconic Spigolo Giallo on the Tre Cime to the vast walls of Tofana di Rozes dominating the view over Cortina, climbers have a life’s worth of amazing objectives.
Available May - October
Alpine ice & Mixed
The Mont Blanc massif is home to a huge concentration of quality ice and mixed climbs – whether it’s the ski-in-ski-out goulotte climbs that are doable in a day from the lift (no long approaches like Scotland!) or one of the many big iconic north faces. From autumn through to late spring there is often some climbs in condition in the massif that are suitable for all levels of mixed climbers – during the snowier months an ability to ski in and out of climbs can be essential.
Some examples of possible objectives:
- Chére Couloir on the Triangle du Tacul – a reliable option.
- Albioni-Gabarrou or Modica-Noury – long goulottes on the Tacul’s East face.
- Tour Ronde North face.
- Pelissier Gully on Pointe Lachenal.
Available October - June
Ice Climbing
In the coldest winter months, the water courses of the Alpine valleys freeze forming fantastic waterfall ice formations that can be climbed on. These are typically what people picture when they think of ice climbing. The Alps is home to a range of venues where this style of climbing is possible and have climbs for all levels such as Cogne in the Val d’Aosta, the nearest reliable venue to Chamonix, that combines all the best parts of Italy with short walks in and tons of quality ice routes. Beyond there are the classic venues of Kandersteg in Switzerland, home to many long ice routes, La Grave in the Hautes Alpes, a classic venue for ice and skiing or Rjukan in Norway, a brilliant, reliable venue in the Telemark region steeped in history.
Available December - February
Skills Workshops
Whilst in all guiding I try to pass on skills and teaching as we go, for those looking to move towards independence or want to work on a specific skill set, I can run tailored courses or workshops to help you meet these aims.
Below are some ideas for inspiration:
- Intro to Alpinism: For groups wanting to get their first steps into independent alpine climbing in a safe way, I can run courses looking at all the new skills that bridge the gaps between mountaineering and climbing in a UK or non glacial setting to climbing in an alpine environment under your own steam.
- Glacial rescue and travel: For groups wanting to learn, or a refresh, on the skills needed to move around safely in a glacial environment in the summer time, we can run one or two day clinics.
- Technical Alpine Skills: For those with some alpine experience looking to move onto bigger, more serious objectives, we can look at tricks and techniques that will lead to great efficiency and confidence on longer routes. From your own movement skills to better ropework and tactics.
Available June - september
