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Grandes Courses

Mini-Guide to grandes courses of the western alps
Paul Swail on the Hintertoisser Traverse of the Eiger North Face, Grindelwald

What is a Grand Course?

A Grand Course is basically a big alpine route, typically of a committing nature. They often are fairly character building affairs and for many alpinists are the highlights of their climbing career (or experiences they want to forget). They require many skills beyond pure climbing technical ability such as stamina to go all day (and possibly more) and the mental fortitude not to bow into the pressure of being strapped onto a face for long periods of time. For this effort though, you are rewarded with some fantastic positions and experiences that it is hard to find elsewhere. The aim of this article is to provide some inspiration for what routes are out there in the Western Alps that can provide these types of experiences, to do this, I have set rough criteria that the routes should be over 600m in length, generally TD or greater in difficulty and should be fairly committed (i.e. shouldn’t really be abseil off descents or bolted belays).

There are quite a range of routes that fall in this category from big traditional alpine rock routes (Walker Spur, Piz Badile etc) to icy north faces (Eiger, Matterhorn etc) to modern hard free climbing routes on big faces (Divine Providence, Pancencia etc) however, there are only so many large, steep walls of this size on mountains in the Alps so a lot of the routes tend be in similar places.  

For this article I will try and outline a range of the classic and not so classic grandes courses that are semi-regularly climbed (or famous) across the western alps from the Ecrins to Bregaglia. This is not a definitive list. I won’t do the eastern alps as I do not know enough about them. If anyone reading this sees any notable omissions, please get in contact.

Tim Exley at the top of the 90m diedre on the American Direct on the West Face of the Dru

Mont Blanc Massif

Home to probably the highest density of routes of this nature in the Alps, the mountains between Chamonix and Courmayeur have both the height, steepness and rock quality in the mountains to produce many routes of this style.

Mont Blanc

The Alps highest mountain – all the big routes here are on the huge South Face above Courmayeur and range from high altitude gully climbs and rock routes to the biggest ridge in the Alps. I have also included the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey despite being it’s own mountain.

Summer:

  • Ratti-Vitali (TD+), West Face of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.
  • South Ridge (TD), Aiguille Noire de Peuterey.
  • Gervasutti (TD+), Pointe Guglermina.
  • Freney Pillar (TD+)
  • Red Pillar de Brouillard – Bonatti-Ogioni (TD+), Gabarrou-Long (ED), Anneaux Magique (TD+), Incroyable (ED+) – probably only fit criteria if you finish up the Brouillard Arete not abseil off.
  • Peuterey Integrale (TD+)
  • Divine Providence (ED+), Grand Pillar d’Angle

Winter:

  • Hypercouloir of the Brouillard (ED) – there are other gully lines too, this is most common for conditions.
  • Cechinel-Nominee (TD+), Grand Pillar d’Angle
Tim Oliver on Pointe Guglermina as part of the Peuterey Integrale (TD+)

Grandes Jorasses

One of the six classic north face of the Alps and home to a lot of grandes courses. I will list some of the more frequented/famous ones – all routes on the north face fit this category really of which there are many!

Summer:
 
  • Walker Spur (ED-), north face
  • Manitua (ED+), north face
  • Gervasutti (ED-), east face
  • Mad Max (ED), east face
  • Groucho Marx (ED+), east face
  • Tronchey Ridge (TD-), south face
Winter:
 
  • The Shroud (TD-), north face
  • Colton MacIntyre (ED-), north face
  • Croz Spur (ED-), north face
  • Polish Route (ED-), north face
  • Reve Ephmere des Alpinistes (TD+), north face
  • Desmaison-Goussealt (ED+), north face
  • Rolling Stones (ED+), north face
  • No Siesta (ED+), north face
  • Bonatti-Vaucher (ED+), north face
  • Directe des Amities (ED+), north face
  • Phantom Direct (ED-), south face
  • Hypercouloir (ED-), south face
Killian Buckley at the top of the Walker Spur

Chamonix Aiguilles

The steep rocky Aiguilles that tower over Chamonix have a fair few big routes – many just making the cut on this list due to ease of accessibility and length.

Summer:

  • Aiguilles Traverse (TD)
  • North Ridge (TD), Grands Charmoz
  • Cordier Pillar (TD), Grands Charmoz
  • Peigne – Plan Traverse (TD-)
  • Bec Oiseau (TD+)
  • South Face of the Fou – range of hard rock routes here – classic is the American Route (ED).

Winter:

  • Merkl-Welzenbach (TD+), Grands Charmoz
  • West Couloir Direct (TD+), Aiguille du Plan
  • Fil a Plomb (TD-), Aiguille du Plan
  • Eugster Direct (TD+), Aiguille du Midi
Tom Seccombe on the Merkl-Welzenbach (TD+) on the Grand Charmoz

Droites

The biggest face in the Argentiere basin is the north face of the Droites. This is home to a lot of different grandes courses from regularly done gully lines to hard modern mixed test pieces, below are some of the classics:

Summer:

  • Tournier Spur Integrale (ED-)

Winter:

  • Lagarde Direct (TD-)
  • Ginat (ED-)
  • Colton-Brooks (ED-)
  • Czech Gully (ED-)
  • Ecaille Epique (ED+)
  • Rhem-Vimal (ED+)
Tom Seccombe on Reve Ephermere des Alpinistes (TD+), Grandes Jorasses

Les Dru

Big monolith of rock, highly visible from Chamonix and one of the six north faces. It has a series of long rock routes on it’s west and south faces and a bunch of rockier, mixed lines on it’s north face to be done autumn through spring.

Summer:

  • American Direct (ED-), west face
  • Contamine-Bastien (TD), south face
  • Trident Pillar (TD), south face

Winter:

  • Allain-Leninger (TD+), north face
  • Dru North Couloir & Direct (ED)
  • Leseur Route (ED-), north face
  • Guides Route (ED+), north face
Freja Shannon on the Contamine-Bastien (TD)

Aiguille Verte

One of Chamonix’s classic 4000’s, it has many large faces, home to big routes, all of a mixed nature. The Brown-Patey can be done in early summer but the rest are mostly autumn – spring routes.

Summer:

  • Brown-Patey (TD+), Sans Nom

Winter:

  • Naia (TD), Charpoua face
  • English Route (ED-), Sans Nom
  • Gabarrou-Silvy (ED+), Sans Nom
  • Vivagel (TD-), north face
  • Bettembourg (TD-), north face
  • Late to Say I’m Sorry (ED), north face
The Sans Nom side of the Aiguille Verte and the Dru

Chamonix Outliers

There are a few other classic grand course style routes (all on the easier end of the spectrum) on other peaks in Chamonix that typically don’t have any others, I have listed them below:

Summer:

  • Gervasutti Pillar (TD), Mont Blanc du Tacul
  • Contamine (TD), Petites Jorasses

Winter:

  • Macho Couloir Direct (TD), Mont Blanc du Tacul
  • Swiss Route (TD-), Courtes
Tim Oliver on the Allain-Leninger (TD+), Dru North Face

Ecrins

A much quieter mountain range than the Mont Blanc Massif and lacking it’s altitude, the Ecrins has a range of Grandes Courses of it’s own, often of a more rocky nature. Whilst the rock here is not bomber Chamonix granite, it is on the whole a lot better than Valais and the Oberland meaning it’s a good alternative destination for big summer rock based outings.

Meije

The queen of the Oisans above La Grave has both a large steep north face home to some hard wintery rock routes and a huge south wall with numerous alpine rock routes leading to it’s different summits.

Summer:

  • Allain-Leninger (TD), south face
  • Chaud, Doigt de Dieu (TD+), south face
  • Dibona-Mayer (TD), south face
  • Mitchka (ED), south face
  • Directissime des Potes (ED+), north face

Winter:

  • North Face Direct (TD+), north face
Jon Gupta on the Allain-Leninger (TD) on the south face of the Meije

Barre des Ecrins

The only 4000er in the southern alps has a large southern face that is home to some long, often chossy adventure routes. Included here are routes on the Dome de Neige des Ecrins also – a sub peak – with a big north west face in the Berarde Valley.

Summer:

  • South Pillar (TD), BDE south face
  • Central Pillar of the Left (TD+), DdNdE north face
  • Central Pillar of the Right (ED-), DdNdE north face

Winter:

  • Gabarrou-Marsigny (ED-), BDE south face
  • Boivin Couloir (ED-), DdNdE north face
Freja Shannon nearing the top of South Face after climbing the South Pillar

Ailefroide

The Ailefroide is one of the big north faces of the Ecrins with complex logistics being pretty remote with descent often a different side of the Massif to where you started. It’s classic summer line is often referred to as the Walker of the Oisans.

Summer:

  • Devies-Gervasutti (TD+), north face

Winter:

  • Grassi Gully (TD+), north face
  • Fourastier (TD), north face
  • Pschitt Gully (TD), north face
Jon Gupta mid way up the South Face of the Meije (TD)

Olan

Away from the other mountains in this list and accessible from the Grenoble side of the massif, the Olan has some big classic rock routes on it. The mountain suffered a big rockfall recently that may have effected these routes.

Summer:

  • Couzy-Desmaison (ED-)
  • Devies-Gervasutti (TD+)
  • Voie de Mafia (ED-) – on the nearby Les Rouies in the same sector.

Rateau

Easily accessible from the La Grave lift system and smaller than some of the other faces in the area, the Rateau has a range of north facing routes predominantly on rock but now done in the winter months.

Winter:

  • Cambon-Francou (TD)
  • Fourastier-Madier (ED-)

Pic Sans Nom

A large complex peak close to the village of Ailefroide, it is home to some longer adventurous rock routes and one of the Ecrins classic goulottes.

Summer:

  • Cambon-Francou (ED-)
  • George-Russenberger (ED-)

Winter:

  • Raies des Fesses (ED-)

Pelvoux

Another big mountain accessible from the Glacier Noir and the centre of the Ecrins massif. Home to some big snow and mixed climbs, it is very close to Ailefroide.

Summer:

  • East Pillar (TD)

Winter:

  • Berhault Couloir (TD)
  • Central Slope (TD)
  • Chaud Couloir (TD-)

Pic Gaspard

A peak near the Pave refuge and accessible from La Grave, it has a range of good rock routes on it as well as well as the classic SSE arete put up by Gervasutti.

Summer:

  • SSE Arete (TD)
Freja Shannon amongst the choss on the South Pilllar of the Barre des Ecrins

Valais

The land of 4000m peaks is really the realm of easy to mid grade alpinism. This is predominantly because the rock quality is pretty horrendous and so routes generally favour the ridges and there isn’t an abundance of good quality clean faces. Having said this there a few peaks that host grand course style outings, pretty much all of a mixed nature.

Matterhorn

The most famous mountain of the Alps is home to one of the classic north faces which hosts a bunch of big mixed lines. The south face also now hosts some big modern rock routes – mostly done in winter due to the rock quality. I have listed some of the more frequented here:

Summer:

  • Padre Pio Prega Per Noi/Echelle Ver Le Ciel (ED+)

Winter:

  • Schmid (TD+), north face
  • Bonatti (ED-), north face
  • Zmutt Nose (ED+), north face – several lines exist, most involve some aid.
Climbers on the Schmid route (TD+) on north face of the Matterhorn

Dent Blanche

The other big mixed north face in the Valais that is semi-often climbed, it also has a range of slightly shorter mixed lines on it’s north east face.

Summer:

  • North Ridge (TD)

Winter:

  • North Face Direct (TD+)
Dent Blanche North Face visible in the centre

Monte Rosa

More a massif than a singular mountain – a few of it’s peaks have routes that just about make the cut for this list for various reasons but on the whole more known for ski touring and ridge outings.

Summer:

  • Cresta Santa Caterina (TD), Nordend

Winter:

  • Grassi-Benardi (TD), Roccia Nera
  • Supersaxo (TD-), Breithorn
Naoise O'Muircheartaigh on the Grassi-Bernardi (TD) on the Roccia Nera

Mont Collon

The mountain above Arolla is large and complex and has some big mixed gully lines (some threatened by seracs) on it’s north face and a rock based line to the east near the Bouquetins refuge.

Summer:

  • Sunrise Pillar (TD-)

Winter:

  • Northwest Gully (TD)
  • Tryptikon (ED)
Rich Manterfield and Tom Seccombe high up on the Schmid (TD+), Matterhorn

Bernese Oberland

Generally the rock in the Oberland is a step up in quality from the Valais and there are certainly a lot of big faces in the range. A lot of the faces here are big mixed affairs and some of the old classics are now seeing the detrimental effects of glacial recession. I’m sure that I will miss some stuff out here so please let me know if you spot anything.

Eiger

The most famous north face in the world is home to a lot of grand course style outings often at the cutting edge of their time – some with little repetition to this day. I will list some of the main ones but there are many more.

Summer:

  • Chant du Cygne (ED), Geneva Pillar
  • Marmelibahn (ED-), south face
  • Paciencia (ED+), north face

Winter:

  • Heckmair Route (ED-)
  • Lauper Route (TD+)
  • Harlin Directissima (ED+)
  • Metanoia (ED+)
Rhys MacCallister on the Heckmair (ED-) on the Eiger

Monch & Jungfrau

The other routes in the trio of famous mountains above Grindelwald also have some big mixed lines on their north faces. Old school classics on the Monch and relatively new routes on the Jungfrau.

Winter:

  • Lauper Route (TD-), Monch
  • Haston-Eistrup (TD+), Monch
  •  Range of lines on the Jungfrau north face between TD-ED that are accessed by traversing in from the Jungfraujoch.
Tim Oliver on the Lauper Route (TD-) on the Monch

Scheideggwetterhorn

A big rocky pillar, a bit like a Bernese Dru, that sits over the eastern end of Grindelwald. Hosts a bunch of long rock based routes with a complex alpine descent but easy approach.

Summer:

  • West Pillar Direct (ED-)
  • North Face Direct (ED+)
  • Baston La Baffe (ED+)
Killian Buckley and Tim Exley on the West Pillar Direct (ED-)

Other

A quick list of other big faces that I am aware of in the range but have little info on how much traffic they get or if they are still done.

Winter:

  • Fiescherwand
  • Finsteraarhorn NE Rib (heard of this being done 2021)
  • Abeni Flue north face (heard of this being done 2022)
  • Gletscherhorn north face
  • Grosshorn north face (heard of this being done 2020)
  • Lauterbrunnen Breithorn north face
  • Lotschental Breithorn north face (heard of this being done 2020)
Killian Buckley on the West Pillar Direct (ED-)

Bregaglia & others

The east of Switzerland doesn’t hold as many large mountains as it’s western part and it’s is more reknown for it’s rock climbing at destinations such as the Ratikon, Susten Pass, Furka Pass and Valle di Mello. However, the small granite Bregaglia massif host a bunch of rocky peaks that have some classic rocky outings on them with rock quality to rival the Mont Blanc Massif and the neighbouring Bernina Massif, home to the mostly Easterly 4000er, have a bunch of mixed routes that just make the cut.

Piz Badile & Piz Cengalo

Classic big rocky north faces of Bregaglia and the Badile being the easiest of the classic six. The Cengalo suffered an enormous rockfall in 2017 that effected it’s NE face, however the NW face I believe is still climbed. Below are some of the classics:

Summer:

  • Cassin (TD), Badile
  • Gaiser-Lehmann (TD), Cengalo
  • Another Day In Paradise (TD), Badile
  • Neverland (TD), Badile
  • People’s Direct (ED), Badile

Winter:

  • Amore di Ventro (ED), Badile
Tim Exley on the Cassin (TD), Piz Badile

Others

Some of the other larger alpine routes in Eastern Switzerland that recieve traffic. Again, this section might be missing some…

Summer:

  • Bumiller Pillar (TD-), Piz Palu
  • Kuffner Pillar (TD-), Piz Palu
  • Gabarrou Pillar (TD), Piz Bernina
  • NE Face (TD-), Piz Roseg
  • Westgrat (TD+), Salbitschijen

Winter:

  • Joos Gully/Diavolezza Express (TD), Piz Cambrena
Freja Shannon on the Westgrat (TD+), Salbitschijen

Hope this article is of use and gives some inspiration and idea of what is out there. More information about a lot of these routes can be found on CamptoCamp or in each respective areas guidebooks. Furthermore, if anyone has any good resources for this style of climbing in East (ie. Slovenia, Austria, Germany, Italy etc) then please let me know.