Best Of: Arve Easier Climbing
Mini-guide to some of the best easier multi-pitches in the arve valley
The Arve valley is the long, limestone valley that seperates the Aravis and Chablais massifs or the big, semi-industrial valley that you drive up to get to Chamonix. For most people visiting the area, they will drive straight through to sample the delights of the Mont Blanc range and Aiguilles Rouges but for those looking for quality limestone climbing or a contrast to the often slabby granite, many of the big cliffs down there offer a great time similar to what you might find in the Verdon or Presles.
Firstly, the title of this article is a little misleading as nothing in the Arve is particularly easy. A lot of the climbing here was developed in the 80’s and is often hard to read and pretty technical and can quite often feel pretty sandbagged if not used to it. For the sake of this article, I am considering ‘easier’ climbing to be up to 7a. The majority of the routes down here tend to fall into the higher grades and a lot of the area classics will be in that range, however, there exists a select range of multi-pitches that are accessible for those climbing in the 6s and low 7s. These routes can allow the exposure, positions and the goulottes d’eau of the mini-big walls of the Arve to be experienced for the vast majority.
All the routes in this article are long multi-sport routes and a fair few of the crags are abseil in with no easy walk out if you can’t make it back out – so definitely have an air of commitment. They can be climbable for a good chunk of the year (except in deep winter) and are often snow free (and sometimes rain free) when Chamonix and the higher altitudes aren’t. The aim of this article is to give inspiration and ideas to what is out there.
Most of the photos in this article were taken on a phone before I started carrying a camera so are pretty bad quality.
Maladiere
The large west facing crag that is highly visible from the first toll station is an impressive cliff. It is very steep and a lot of it can offer protection even on relatively wet days. It is accessed by a 30 minute walk in from near La Frasse and then is an abseil approach. There are a range of fantastic routes at the crag and arguably some of the best in this article – a must visit.
Easier Routes
- Indiana Jaune (6b+) – a classic and probably the best of the lower grade 6s in this list. A great first route to do in the Arve with varied climbing following the large yellow fault line.
- Eclipse (6a+) – a shorter route in the smaller left hand side of Maladiere (looking up).
- Qui s’y Frotte s’y Pique (6c+) – the neighbouring line to Eclipse offers harder climbing with a tricky crux pitch.
- Vade Retro Santanas (7a) – another classic line that runs parallel to Indiana Jaune and offers brilliant harder climbing with a cool arete.
- L’Arche de Noe/L’Arche Perdue (7a) – two cool routes that climb near the large arch.
Vuardes
A beautiful steep south facing cliff that sits on the opposite side of the valley to Maladiere and has some of the best rock in the valley. It has a little longer approach time with a drive up to Romme and then a walk up for 40 mins through the forest before abseiling in. It has characteristic water droplet style holds and yellow rock that is well worth sampling – however there aren’t a huge number of routes in the lower grades.
Easier Routes
- La Costa (6a+) – this route seems to invoke a variety of responses from people being slightly more traditional in climbing style than some of the others and having slightly run out bolting. However, it’s one of the lower grade classics of the cliff and I thought it was pretty good.
- Henri tu vas Rire (6b+) – a rare slabbier line in the Arve that tackles the wall to the left of the large fault and provides great views of the other routes. I’m sure some will find this easier than the previous route…
- Vertiges d’Oubli (6c+) – the classic of the cliff featuring brilliant and varied climbing – fairly sustained route.
- Plentitude (6c+) – the parallel line to Vertiges is similarly good
- Fantasia (6c) – a line up the far left side of the cliff that has a very large feel to it. There is another 6b+ line here, Christian Anselme, but the climbing on it is not that good.
- L’air du Temps (7a): despite the higher grade this route is on the whole easier than some of the above, only having a couple of harder moves.
Balme
The third in the trio of easier to access multi-pitch cliffs in the Arve. Balme is both easier to get to and abseil descent meaning that it lacks the commitment of some of the other cliffs in this list. The routes are also generally smaller in length. All these factors make it a great venue for if time pushed. It is accessed by parking on one of the switchbacks on the Magland – Carroz road and most routes are less than 15 mins walk.
Easier Routes
- Punk Not Dead (6b) – the easier classic of the cliff – a fun route.
- Un Apres-midi de Chien (6b+) – a brilliant route sustained at 6b that starts by climbing a tree to access the rock.
- Zebra (6c) – a very unbalanced route with two harder polished cruxes and the rest a fair bit easier.
- Vieux de la Montagne (6c) – a nice route that is directly above the road and features varied climbing – starting off quite traditional and finishing with some typical Arve slabby weirdness.
- Geva (6c+): sustained climbing at 6b/c
- Jardins de Neptune (7a): the neighbouring line to Geva has some good pitches and a cool corner.
Croix de Fer
The Croix de Fer is the large cliff high up on the eastern side of the valley that is bookended with a large pillar arete. It often catches the sun. Sitting above the Refuge Veran, it is one of the more remote venues in this list and having a 4×4 is definitely advisable if approaching from the valley. It can also be approached from the Flaine resort by walking up to the top and abseiling in. Either way, it is a fairly sizeable approach and makes it a pretty big day out, especially as the approach is on scrambling type terrain. The climbing here is pretty special though and affords fantastic views across the Arve and into the Aravis.
Easier Routes
- SW Pillar (6b+) – the classic old school route up the pillar has some fantastic positions and climbs the obvious feature of the crag.
- Ni Dieu Ni Maitre (6c) – an amazing route with varied climbing on slabs, corners and even a bit of crack – a must-do.
- Luxis (7a) – another fantastic route further along the cliff on Pointe d’Aujon.
Tours d'Areu
The Tours d’Areu are a set of buttresses above the Refuge Doran on the Pointe d’Areu on the west side of the valley. Like the Croix de Fer they are also relatively remote with a sizeable walk in from Burzier which can be shortened with aid of a 4×4 to get you to the Doran Refuge. With stunning views across the Flaine Plateau and the Fiz and beautiful rock they are commonly referred to as the jewel of the Arve and are well worth a visit.
Easier Routes
- Copacabana (6b) – one of the easiest routes at the crag is mostly a slabby route with the crux being a small roof section.
- Pillar Robinson (6b) – a short route that has some nice pitches and can be combined with the previous.
- Melusine (6c) – another shorter route that is very sustained at 6b+/c with sometimes spaced bolting.
- Magic Magellan (6c+) – a great route with sustained climbing and some spaced bolting – another Piola classic.
- Vie de Garcon (6c+): one of the only easier routes on the fifth tour which has some fantastic rock.
- La Nuit des Loups Garous (6c+): a nice route that gets to experience the cool positions of the third tour at a more amenable grade.
- Maudit 13 (7a): a route that is ‘terrain d’adventure’ or requires some gear, as well as bolts, provides a unique experience on the sixth tour. It’s neighbour, Predator, is also similar difficulty, style and varied climbing.
Outliers
Outside of the main venues listed above there are are some other places that either hold only a few routes at the grade or are slightly geographically removed from the main Arve, but very reachable, that I will list below to check out.
- The Fiz – 1959 Route (6c) – a terrain d’adventure outing requiring gear and choss wombling capacities allows a cool trip up the large line of cliffs above Servoz. Slightly above this grade range are a number of modern fully bolted routes that are meant to be of high quality such as Betelgeuse (7a+).
- Plate – the huge face of Pointe Plate lies above Plaine Joux and looks like an extension to the Fiz. It’s home to the Royaume Noir (6c) which is the longest fully bolted route in France as well as the South Pillar of Plate (5c) – a pseudo trad outing taking the line of least resistance up the cliff in an alpine like fashion.
- Tete Louis Phillipe – the lower big arete feature on the east side of the valley below the Croix de Fer has a terrain d’adventure style outing up the obvious pillar. Getting to the start is less than obvious though and the climbing isn’t fantastic.
- Le Clis – mostly a single pitch venue, this crag that is approached from above, does have some multi-pitch outings.
- La Jourdy – whilst technically being in the Giffre valley, this crag that has a built in Jesus cave at the bottom has a couple of nice 6c multi-pitches – Cabanon du Verdon and Aujourd’hy peut-etre
- Col du Colombiere – one of the classic multi-pitching venues of the Aravis that can be reached by driving to Cluses then up the Col. It has a large range of multi-pitches, many significantly easier than those found in the main Arve with some even in the 5s.
- Pointe Percee – the highest point of the Aravis has some classic multi-pitches on it – the classic easier outing being the Arete a Doigt (5c) that takes obvious ridge above the Doran valley. There are many more on Percee itself as well as the Gramussat cliff that is situated on the Clusaz side of the mountain. For those looking for a big challenge then the Grand Arabesque is a big link up of classic Piola multi-pitches that runs from Col des Aravis to Percee itself.
- Petit Bargy – a large crag that is very visible when driving fr0m Geneva to Chamonix. It is characterised by big slabs with eye like features on it. There are a lot of multipitches here that are below 7a and it faces north so can be good for summer days.
- Rochers de Leschaux: another good venue that is a bit of a drive from the main Arve but has some classic old school outings in the lower grades and some high quality modern routes in the 6c-7a range.
More information and topos for these routes can be found in Giles Brunot’s Valle d’Arve guidebook or across his other Aravis or Guiffre books. A lot of info is on CamptoCamp too.