Best of: Chamonix Granite <6b
Guide to the best Granite rock routes in the mont Blanc Massif graded 6b or below
Chamonix is most famous as a destination for Alpinism, however it equally sports lots of high quality mountain granite in a glacial setting to an extent unlike anywhere else in the Alps. This alone is more than enough of a reason for a trip to the area and can often provide climbing of a much lower stress than a lot of the Alpine routes in the area, albeit with a higher physical and technical demand.
This is the first of a two part series of articles looking at some of the classic crags and routes in the Mont Blanc Massif that fall into this Alpine rock genre of routes with the aim of giving people some inspiration and ideas of what is out there if looking for this kind of day out. By Alpine Rock, I mean pure granite rock climbing routes that have bolted belays but the pitches are trad protected on the whole (often with some bolts when run out) – where the descent is most commonly abseiling down the route. Alpine cragging.
The Mont Blanc Massif doesn’t have a huge selection of pure alpine rock routes below 5c (HVS) and the top end of this list, 6b/+, roughly translates to E2/3 – so many of the routes fall into the Hard Rock realms of difficulty. However, this should not be considered a hard and fast comparison due to the fact that the granite climbing in the Massif tends to be less reliant on finger strength than in the UK and good slab and crack technique and general body strength can get you quite a long way.
Like my alpinism articles I will divide this into day hittable and overnight options to help with ideas of logistics and go by crag. Be aware that some of these routes are a lot bigger propositions than others at the same grade, which isn’t necessarily reflected in this article.
Day Hits
A lot of the routes in this section are very popular and by nature should be doable lift to lift in a day. Therefore they will tend to be centered around the Midi, Plan d’Aiguille and Skyway lifts.
Aiguille du Midi:
Midi South Face
The classic easy to approach alpine crag. Either walk round to the base and carry your glacier gear or scramble up to the summit and abseil in and hope you get down before those walking round. There are several classic routes here that fit our criteria, some that get exceptionally busy…
- Rebuffat-Baquiet (6a+): Probably the most famous route in the whole article and the busiest…
- Kohlmann (6a+/6c): Most people climb this with a point of aid bringing it down to 6a+ but free it has a move 6c. Cool upper corner.
- Claire de Lune (6a+): New route that has a fantastic hand crack in it’s upper half. Makes a good (but harder – 6b+ish) combo with the start of Jules de Chez Smith and the upper part of this route.
- Dame du Lac (6b+): one of the most consistent routes on the face where every pitch has interest around 6b – a great route.
Eperon des Cosmiques
The slightly smaller neighbor to the Midi South Face has some good good classic routes on it with the added excitement of finishing up the Cosmiques Ridge at the end.
- Rebuffat-Pierre (6a+): the other classic Rebuffat route has a nice juggy roof pitch.
- Guiffra-Monica (6a): Nice varied slab and crack climbing on the left hand side of the buttress.
Pointe Lachenal
The south face of Pointe Lachenal is hidden from the Midi but has fantastic quick drying granite routes that often climbable from spring onwards.
- Contamine (6a+): One of the best routes of it’s grade in the massif.
- Harold et Maud (6b): the neighboring route has a steep punchy crux pitch
Plan d'Aiguille:
Peigne
This mountain has three ‘crag’ areas the easy to approach, but large, Gendarme Rouge, the upper buttress that is approached from the normal route and the slabs of the Peigne.
- Contamine-Vaucher (6a): A bit old school and thrutchy but definitely worthwhile following obvious features up the Gendarme Rouge.
- North Ridge (6a): a bit alpine so nearly missing the cut – this climbs the upper buttress of the Peigne.
- Les Lepidotieres (5b): a rare easy route that is on the right side of the Peigne slabs, could be linked into one of the routes on the upper buttress.
Red Pillar of the Blaitiere
One of the classic alpine cragging spots with a good coverage of great routes and a relatively easy approach.
- Nabot-Leon (5c): classic easier route
- Diamants du Presidents (6a+): good thrutchy climbing
- Tsarmania (6b): newer route that is pretty sustained at 6a/b
- Osez Josephine (6a+): a continuation above the main red pillar.
- Majorette Thatcher (6b+): classic crack climbing at the upper end of this list
Aiguille de l'M
All the rock routes on this are pretty old school but provide a good day trip outings from the Montenvers or Plan de l’Aiguille lifts.
- Couzy (5c): old school easier climbing up the grooveline
- Menegaux (6b): more old school thrutching but harder
Skyway:
Whilst possible to reach this sector from the Panoramique lift, doing any of these routes to and from the Panoramique will be pushing it so it is more common to day hit from the Skyway that has a longer schedule.
Pointe Adolphe Rey
The first of the rocky satellite peaks reached when walking from the Skyway lift has loads of rock routes on it but many are quite hard.
- Salluard (6a+): the classic easy route on the eastern end. Mostly easier but with one harder pitch.
- Gervasutti (6a): the other classic easy route follows prominent corner systems
- Bettembourg-Thiverge (6b+): a nice route following prominent groove line in the middle of the face – a harder pitch is now at the start due to glacial recession that can be aided.
- Corsaire (6b+): the neighboring route to the above has more slab climbing.
Roi du Siam/Petit Capucin:
These two peaks are very close together and the next in the chain of satellites. They have a few nice easier rock routes on them.
- Lifting du Roi (5c): an easier route that borders on the realms of alpine scrambling but a nice way to reach the summit.
- Petit Capuossin (6b): a harder alternative
Chandelle
This summit is in the shadow of the huge Grand Capucin but has fantastic climbing on it.
- Bonatti-Tabou (6b+): A combination of the routes Tabou and Bonatti-Galeini takes a direct line up the buttress and the easier climbing – a classic at the grade.
Other:
Pareti dei Titani
A granite crag that is accessible from the valley floor in Val Ferret in a day and has a range of granite climbs some bolted.
- Genepi 1 (5c): easier route of the crag, mostly bolted.
- Genepi 2 (6a): the accompanying route is a little harder with less bolts.
- Titanic (6b+): a good continuous route.
- Venus ou Bien Venise (6b+): less continuous but equally good.
Aiguille Croux
This crag is only really day hittable for fit and fast teams and even for them will be a decent sized day. For most, it is better to do it as an overnight in the Monzino and climb two different routes.
- Ottoz (5c): classic route of the crag, long and amenable grades.
- Vistee Guide (6b): harder more direct route
Overnights
Routes in this section will often involve a significant approach time or be of a longer length, where staying in a hut for a night before or after can be beneficial and allow you to get the most out of an area. Often you can walk in and climb a route in the same day (with careful route choice) with a late finish and then climb a route the next and walk out.
Torino:
Grand Capucin
The classic destination for Alpine rock climbing in the massif is a spectacular mini peak and a definite must to climb. There aren’t many easier routes and is more reknown for those operating in the upper grade ranges but there are two easier classics.
- Swiss Route (6b+): classic route that starts up the lefthand couloir and climbs the left of the pinnacle with a section of A0 near the top.
- O Sole O Mio (6b): the neighboring route is a Piola classic and many people end up doing a combo of the two to avoid the aid.
Clocher du Tacul
A less travelled satellite of the Tacul that sits furthest away from the Skyway mostly has routes above the grade range here but has one classic that is worth doing if staying over in the area.
- Boivin (6b): classic route on the Red Pillar of the Clocher that features nice varied climbing.
Talefre:
Moine
The east face of the Moine is one of the few rock climbing destinations in this basin and is home to an old school classic.
- Contamine-Labrunie (6a): very non continuous with the hard climbing at the start and a more mountaineering style finish but a nice, long route to a summit.
Leschaux:
Petites Jorasses
The West Face of the Petites Jorasses is 600m tall and a big undertaking that verges more into the grand course category of climbs. However, there is one modern route here that would provide a good outing for people operating at the upper end of the grade range in the article.
- Anouk (6b+): a classic Piola route featuring brilliant positioned slab climbing and a line that breaches the dramatic roofs that cap the face at mid height.
Pierre Joseph
The many different rock bastions of the Aiguille Pierre Joseph are easily reached behind the Leschaux hut from the balcon paths and provide mid sized routes that are rarely busy. There are many here in the grade range, below are some of the better ones.
- Comte-Engelmann (5c): classic easier route of the sector with nice climbing.
- Nonchalance d’Iguane Combo (6b): good crack climbing that avoids some of the harder climbing of the individual routes.
Charpoua:
Flammes des Pierre
The Flammes des Pierre is the premier spot for granite cragging in the Charpoua and is abnormally steep for a granite crag. Therefore it does not have many easier routes – only one for this article.
- Joyau et Lotus (6a+): the western ridge of the Flammes des Pierres starts with slab and crack pitches and finishes with ridge climbing.
L'Eveque
The many buttress of the West Face of the Eveque have a range of modern rock routes of around 8 – 10 pitches that have recently been re-equipped. There are a lot here and are very easy to reach from the Charpoua hut.
- Ciao Marco (6b): a good modern route on Pointe Wenger that features some superb cracks
- Monsieur Lefebvre (5c): rare easier route in the Charpoua on the Pointe 3014.
Envers:
The Envers is one of the major destinations for granite cragging in the massif and there are tons of routes here, all developed in the modern style that this article is about. I will outline the classics here but there are plenty more options.
Tour Verte
The small Tour Verte is both the closest crag to the Envers hut and also one of the smallest, making it a great option for a shorter day out.
- La Piege (6a+): an Envers classic with it’s difficulties mostly in cracks.
Pointes des Nantillons
This crag is one of the most popular in the Envers with a quick, non glacial, approach and routes of 10 or so pitches. Pretty much all the popular routes here are in this bracket of grades.
- Bienvenue George V: (6a+): The area classic
- Amazonia (6a+): a shorter route than joins the following at 2/3 height.
- Guy-Anne Insolite (6a+): punchy for the grade and maybe the best route here
- Fleur des Mal (6b+): a harder alternative that runs parallel to Bienvenue…
Tour Rouge
The Tour Rouge is sort of the twin to Pointe des Nantillons that is of a similar size and reached with similar ease in the opposite direction from the hut. A lot of the routes here are harder though but it does have a few classic easier ones.
Marchand de Sable (6a+): the other classic climb of the sector – a bit stiffer than Bienvenue…
Aiguille du Roc
One of the larger peaks in the area and hosting some routes that are about as long as you can get for this style and difficulty. All with an easy approach from the Envers hut.
- Subtitles Dulferiennes (6b+): classic Piola route that has few bolts on it and even requires some belay building. Has a stunning corner crack pitch.
- Children of the Moon Integrale (6a+): one of the classic long routes of the Envers – the top half is the highlight with brilliant crack systems.
- La Soleil Rendez-Vous avec La Lune (6b): one of the longest alpine rock routes in the massif is actually on the neighbouring Grepon, not the Aiguille Roc, and goes all the way to the summit – a must for a big day out.
Lower Slabs
This actually encompasses two crags; the slabs below the Envers hut and the slabs that are accessed below the Trelaporte glacier. Routes on the later could be climbed in a day by a fast team from the train. All feature nice climbing of a mid length predominantly of a slabby nature.
- Voie Georges (6b), Trelaporte Slabs
- 20000 Leagues under the Sea (6b), Trelaporte Slabs
- Les Contes de la Folie Ordinaire (6a+), Pilier de Conte
- Amok (6b), Pilier de Conte
Blaitiere
The southern Tours of the Blaitiere have a couple of easier routes that are good days out for teams new to the area or looking for easier routes in a magnificent setting.
- Magie d’Oriente (6a)
- Opium du Peuple (6a)
Requin
The Dent du Requin behind the Requin hut has a large south face that hosts numerous rock routes. It is often best approached on skis in the spring.
- Congo Star (6a): the classic of the crag
Argentiere:
Aiguille du Refuge
The crag right behind the Argentiere hut has a very short approach time and has quite a range of short routes in the easier grades. Good for a half day on a walk in or out.
- Bettembourg de Droite (5c): three pitch route to the junction with the following
- Gateau de Riz (5c): classic easier climb up the left hand ridge
- Bettembourg-Gillet (6b+) and Doux Refuge (6b+): more three pitch routes that junction with Gateau…
Aiguille du Genepi
Still within 20 mins of the hut this peak has fantastic quality orange granite and the routes are slightly longer in length.
- Mort de Rire (6a): the classic of the crag with one harder pitch but mostly easier climbing
- Un Eclat du Rire (6a+): the neighboring climb of a similar quality
Plateau du Jardin
30 mins walk from the Argentiere hut, this peak has some classic routes in the easier grades but is slightly shadier than the other crags. Well worth a visit.
- Central Diedre (6a): the prominent corner system in the middle of the buttress
- Singe Bleu (6b): the neighboring route is a harder alternative
Le Minaret
The Minaret is a beautiful orange tower sitting about 45 mins walk up the Tour Noir Glacier from the hut. It has an old classic route on it that provides a longer day out than some of those in the area.
- SE Spur (6a): This classic route was put up by Rebuffat in the 60’s and follows the ridge line.
South Pillar
One of the more remote crags in the area, these routes are a bit of a step up than the others in this section and require an alpine approach up the start of the Y Couloir. Both are maginificent climbs on excellent granite.
- Bettembourg Pillar (6b+): only partially equipped with belays
- Pirate (6b+): the neighbouring route and easier to get to.
Dalmazzi:
Monts Rouges des Triolet
This ridge line running behind the Dalmazzi hut above Val Ferret has numerous buttresses hosting rock routes of a mid length, many in this grade range. Below are some of the classics.
- Profumo Probitio (6a): Classic of the area
- Cristillina (6b+): beautiful rock
- Les Chamois Volants (5c): longer more mountaineering style route
Orny:
Aiguille d'Orny & Aiguille de la Cabane
These two smaller peaks behind the Cabane d’Orny can be reached and climbed in a day from the Champex lift system but most will climb here with an overnight. There are a large number of lower grade rock routes on the peaks here and it should be high on the list of those operating below 6a.
- South Classic (5b)
- Geremiade (6a)
- Bon Accueil (5b): Remy Bro’s classic of the area
- Tichodrome (5c)
Dorees
The South Face of the various spires of the Aiguilles Dorees host many beautiful rock routes on brilliant granite most on the Aiguille de la Varappe and Aiguille Sans Nom. It is a bit further to get to but is serviced by the beautiful Bivouac de Dorees. There are many more routes in the grade range here making it a good destination for those operating between 6a-6b+.
- Eole Danza per Noi (6a+): Classic of the area
- Les Chants du Midi (6a+): another route on fantastic granite
- Et Je Suis Le Vent (6b+): good harder route
- Sans Nom South Ridge (5c): longer more mountaineering style route
More information and topos for some of these routes can be found in the new Rockfax Chamonix guidebook (https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/chamonix) or across the JME editions Chamonix Granite volumes 1-4 or other guidebooks. A lot of info is on CamptoCamp too.