Best Of: Multi-Pitch Cragging near Chamonix

Mini-Guide to crags offering multi-pitch cragging within 2hrs of Chamonix

When most people think of Chamonix rock climbing they will conjure up images of the granite cracks and slabs found in the Mont Blanc Massif that the area is famous for. However, the season for this climbing is relatively small with good weather and conditions for granite only coming between June and early October normally. In addition a knowledge of trad protection and basic technique is required. However, for the sport climber looking for longer routes or if you are beset with bad weather in the mountains, there are many options and destinations within 2 hours of Chamonix that can provide quality climbing at lower elevations, with longer seasons and mostly fully equipped routes that still have an air of adventure.

The aim of this article is to look at a range of crags that offer decent multi-pitch climbs that are reachable from Chamonix in less than 2 hours, to help give inspiration for those looking for different destinations. The article doesn’t include any crags that I would consider ‘alpine’ (see the granite climbing articles), with most being multi-pitch sport climbing – although the amount of adventure can vary significantly. Most of the crags will have a range of grades and I have excluded crags that have only a few hard routes so should be something for the majority of climbers. It’s worth noting that if the weather is bad in Chamonix, then it often isn’t everywhere, and feasible climbing conditions can more often than not be found. I’ve divided the article into four regions – Chamonix Valley, Haute Savoie, Aosta and Switzerland – which are the four different weather systems and directions of driving.

The Greater Chamonix area

The greater Chamonix area (Servoz to Trient) is not beset with great options for multi-pitch climbing that isn’t up high in the mountains. and the valley level cragging often leaves a lot to be desired. The best area for bolted multi-pitch is undoubtedly the crags of the Aiguilles Rouges which are best served from the Brevent and Flegere lifts and I have written about here. For this article, I’m going to be talking about the other cragging options – these tend to be between Col des Montets and Emosson and reachable in a car from 20-40 mins or by train.

Areas/crags

Chesery:

A lot of the appeal of the Chesery Slabs are their surroundings. With amazing vistas of the Tour and Argentiere glaciers and the backdrop of the Dru and Aiguilles it’s hard to beat. The climbing is mostly slabby terrain and generally on the easier side with little continuity – good for those looking for a chilled day out. The 40 min walk in is pleasant too being part of the TMB.

Un Pere Noel pour Lucy (6a)
Voie EMHM (5c)
Les Grimbouleurs (6b)

Berarde:

The Berarde valley is accessed from the village of Buet and is beautiful walk in it’s own right with a picturesque buvette, waterfall and via ferrata. It also has several good crags that are reached within a 1h20 walk with a range of aspects and a secluded feeling that is often lost in the Chamonix area. All the following are fully equipped and are some of the better routes in the valley.

Oreb: Into the Wild (6a)
Oreb: Ete Indien (6a+)
Tete de Mesure: Ombre et Lumiere (6a+)

Barberine/Gietroz:

The large rocky mound that makes up the Barberine-Gietroz hillside doesn’t look like a lot from below but is host to several fantastic single pitch crags as well as a host of brilliant multi-pitches, making it one of the premier destinations for easy to access routes of this nature. The rock here is a mixture of gneiss and granite, pretty similar to Ailefroide, and difficulties on both slabs and steep faces. Unlike a lot of the other venues in this section, it also has a host of harder climbs making it appeal to a wider range of climbers. The routes are either accessed from parking near the border at Chatelard or from Barberine village all in less than 15 mins.

Barberine: Magicien d’Oz (6b)
Barberine: Vipere a Pied (6b)
Barberine: Sylvie Phobie (6c)
Barberine: Miroirs on the Ceiling (7a)
Gietroz: Cacao Girls (6a)
Gietroz: Autoroute Blanche (6c)

Emosson:

The Emosson dam above Finhaut is the gateway to climbing in the Perrons, the end of the Aiguilles Rouges chain, that host many great multi-pitches but, with their long approach and more serious nature, go beyond the scope of this article (but can be read about here). Closer to the dam there are a host of other crags varying in approach from 15 mins to 1h that feature pleasant climbing in a beautiful setting overlooking the lake and the mountains around. Below are some of the best.

Aiguille du Van: Acqua Concert (6a)
Emosson Dam: Devers Emossionel (7a)

Haute Savoie

Down the viaduct past Servoz, the Haute Savoie is full of crags of all varieties – all on generally fantastic limestone. A lot of the areas here are destinations in their own right, with lots of climbers coming from Annecy or Geneva or further afield to sample the techy limestone of the Arve, Vallee Verte and Aravis. For the purpose of this article, I’m only going to touch on the Arve valley climbing as I have written an article about it here but there are many fantastic options there, generally in the higher grades. For those looking for more moderate routes, the Aravis has a fantastic range of venues, all with a mountainous flair often with the characteristic water worn runnels.

areas/Crags

Arve:

As mentioned above, I’m only going to do a small summary here of the best mid grade routes but there is a whole lifetime of climbing on a huge number of crags which I have summarized more comprehensively in this article. The climbing in the Arve is on the whole, pretty techy and can feel hard for the grade, however, the many big faces offer quality steep climbing different from any of the other areas on this list.

Maladiere: Indiana Jaune (6b+)
Balme: Un Apres Midi du Chien (6b+)
Vuardes: Vertiges d’Oubli (6c+)
Croix de Fer: Ni Dieu, Ni Maitre (6c)
Tours d’Areu: Alcootest (7a+)
Fiz: Betelguise (7a+)

Col du Colombiere:

The Col du Colombiere is a high road col that is reached from Chamonix in little over an hour by car. It has a range of multi-pitch climbs on weather worn limestone in the lower to mid grades centred around the Pic Jallouvre and Point Dzerat. The former has a very easy approach that takes less than 10 mins whereas the later has little more walking through the Reblochon alpages – not a problem with the nice views!

Pic Jallouvre: Allez-y Madame Mummery (6a)
Point Dzerat: Tchao Godillo (6a+)
Point Dzerat: L’Année des 13 Lunes (6a+)

Petit Bargy:

The Petit Bargy is one of the most visible crags when driving through Bonneville on the way to Chamonix – featuring it’s large ominous north facing slabs with giant eye-like formations. Approached from near Mont Saxonnex, the crag is good for high summer when it is too hot elsewhere and the crag can feel like a north facing oasis overlooking a beautiful mountain lake with views out to Geneva. The best routes weave their way through the distinct eyes on generally slabby ground.

Variante a Petiole (6a)
Pegase (6b)

Rocher des Leschaux:

The Rocher des Leschaux is another crag in the vicinity of Mont Saxonnex, with a swift 35 mins approach from the beautiful Plateau Solaison. The routes here are generally 6 or so pitches and there is a range of route styles from modern fully bolted sport routes to terrain d’adventure old school classics of mostly a steeper nature. Overall, a great crag that is never busy.

Franco-Suisse (6b)
Les Collegiens (6b)
Libellule et Papillon (6c)
A Boire a Boire, et Que Les Femmes se Donnent! (7a)

Gramusset:

The Refuge Gramusset is mostly known as a starting point for people climbing Point Percee, the highest point in the Aravis. However, there are a range of crags and routes around here that feature some brilliant climbing, of both a mountain nature on Percee itself, and of a more modern style on the steeper cliffs of Gramusset or Point Chombas. This is quite a big day out from Chamonix with the longish drive and 1h30 approach time but is well worth it for the quality situations and climbing.

Point Percee: Arete a Doigt (5c)
Gramusset: Partage a Monde (6c+)
Point Chombas: Été Indien (5c)

Annecy/Thones:

At the limit of the driving range of this article are some of the crags in the region of Thones and Annecy, both situated on the Lac of the same name. In particularly, Sapey, with it’s characteristic waterworn rock and slabs, and Grandes Suites, situated in a wonderful position overlooking the Lac. Both are full days out and great ways to explore the wider Annecy area – possibly with a swim in the Lac and ice cream afterwards.

Sapey: L’Ecume de Jours (6a+)
Sapey: Delit de Fruite (6a+)
Grandes Suites: Harmonie (6a+)

Tete du Bostan / Tuet:

The Vallee Verte (the valley between Annemasse and Sixt) is well known for quality single pitch crags but less know for multi-pitch offerings – especially in the lower grades. It does however, have a couple of very long (20 pitch+) routes that weave their way up the hillside to Point Tuet in a discontinuous fashion. On the other side of the hill near Morzine, the Tete du Bostan also has a couple of easier north facing routes that can be worth doing – although the 1h20 drive might put some off.

Tuet: Le Copains d’Abord (6a+)
Tuet: Ligne du Vie (6c)
Bostan: Maudits Bl’heros (5c)

Saleve:

The Saleve is the large rock face that overlooks the A40 around Geneva and has long been host to a range of climbs from single pitch crags to multi-pitch climbs of all grades, mostly with great views across the city and Lake. It can be a little polished. It’s a good place to climb if visiting the airport and is quickly easily reachable on the motorway in an hour from Chamonix.

Fil Ou Face (6a+)
Arete des Etoillets (5c)

Aosta Valley

The Aosta valley is normally the ‘get out of jail’ card when stuck in bad weather in Chamonix – but unfortunately does come at a cost – having to deal with the busy and expensive Mont Blanc tunnel. Most people will commonly make the longish drive down to Arnad and Albard to sample some of the fantastic multi pitches down there or head to the brilliant single pitch venues of the Valgrisenche in the Paradiso national park. However, beyond these venues there are plenty more multi pitch crags, often a lot closer to the tunnel, that have the characteristic quality gneiss that Aosta is known for and make for a great day out combined with an ice cream and/or pizza.

areas/Crags

Val Ferret:

The beautiful Val Ferret is one of my favorites in the Chamonix region with amazing vistas of the Jorasses, Geant and Gruetta, nice refuges and picturesque post glacial scenery. It also has a range of quality multi pitch crags accessible from the valley floor in less than 45 mins walk that have high quality compact granite, good bolting and amazing views. Not to mention they are reachable from Chamonix in half an hours drive without traffic.

Titani: Venus (6b+)
Titani: Genepy (6a+)
Pillar Franco Salluard: Il Gatto e la Volpe (6a+)

Val Veny:

The opposing valley to Ferret, Val Veny is at the foot of the epic south side of Mont Blanc and is the starting point for a lot of the big adventures there. It also has a couple of crags that make good, multi pitch day hits, mainly on slabby terrain. The first is the Aiguille du Chatelet in front of the Monzino refuge and the other is the Fauteuils des Allemands below the Borelli refuge. Both require a descent down via ferrata and so can make full value days out.

Chatelet: Velociraptor (5c)
Fauteuils des Allemands: Alexius (6a)

Planaval:

Valgrisenche is a valley full of good crags from Leverogne at the base to the Nid d’Hirondelles above the town that shares the valley’s name, it has something for most climbers. Most of the crags are single pitch but the town of Planaval has a couple of new-ish bolted multi-pitch routes above the village that feature cool climbing at the grade through roofs and slabs situated near a waterfall – can feel wild at the grade.

Mario e Cecilia (6a)
Fete au Village (6a+)

Nid d’Hirondelles:

The Nid d’Hirondelles is a steep but relatively small crag high up on the hillside above Valgrisenche. It is quickly reached from a switchback on the road and despite it’s short routes (3-6 pitches) has some great climbing following obvious cracks and corners, often in a very steep situation at modest grades. A recipe for some great climbing!

Barone Rosso (6a+)
Calimero (6b)

Arnad:

Probably the flagship destination for Aosta valley multi pitch, the crags above Arnad have a lot going for them. Being 1h30 drive from Chamonix means they are a fair way down towards the plains of Milan meaning the chances of good weather are pretty high. Couple this with the beautiful Agriturismo that offers cheap, quality Italian food at the top of the climbs means even before the crags themselves you are onto a winner. There are three main crags here, the Machaby slabs – long multi pitches on great compact gneiss, Gruviera – short routes on brilliantly sculpted rock features and Lomasti – harder routes higher up the hillside featuring athletic moves. All are worth a visit or two!

Machaby: Tike Saab (6a)
Machaby: Diedro Jaccod (6a+)
Machaby: Bucce d’Arania (5c+)
Gruviera: Topo Pazzo (5c)
Gruviera: Diedre Rosso (6b)
Lomasti: La Rossa e Il Vampirla (6b+)

Albard:

Further down the valley from Arnad is the confusingly similarly named Albard, where there are also a host of good multi pitch rock routes, mostly in the easier grades. They are situated on Mont Coudrey near the beautiful hillside castle of the Fort di Albard and feature stunning vistas over the lower Aosta valley.

Dr. Jimmy (6a)
I Love You Sylvie (6a+)

Champorcher:

At the limit of our driving distance is the beautiful side valley of Champorcher above the Ayasse river that flows through stunning gorges, over waterfalls and through picturesque villages. This valley is opposite Albard and has a handful of routes on the side of Mont Charvatton and on the scenic Placche di Orianna. For those looking for picturesque Piedmonte villages and quiet away from the main valleys, this is a good destination.

Charvatton: Tommy (6a+)
Orianna: Overfive (5c)

Switzerland

Dropping over the Col du Forclaz towards Martigny opens up a whole other world of climbing around the Rhone Valley and surrounding areas. There is a lot of variety here, from valley level crags on quality gneiss to bigger routes in the mountains that can provide big days out with interesting descents and vistas. Like Aosta, the Rhone valley is a lot lower elevation and generally gets better weather than Chamonix so can be a good place to look if it’s raining – on the flip side, it can also get very hot very quickly! Unlike Aosta, the Valais doesn’t have quite as high a quality of rock and the climbing can be hit or miss sometimes but most of the crags on this list feature some of the better rock around. These destinations can also be good places to go as stop overs if making the trip to climb in Zermatt or Saas Fee from Chamonix.

areas/Crags

Salvan:

The pretty villages of Salvan is perched at the end of the valley that runs from Finhaut to the Rhone. Unfortunately no road runs down that valley so to come from Chamonix you have to drive down to Martigny and then back up again or take the train (more walking). Despite the 1h20 drive, Salvan has a load of cragging options near, mostly single pitch, but also some great longer routes situated at the Pissevache overlooking the Rhone and Scex des Granges higher up the hillside. The involved approach to Pissevache is worth it for the quality of rock and great vistas!

Scex des Granges: Meteo Rire (6a)
Pissevache: Bravo Lapp (5b)
Pissevache: Miles Devisse (6b)

Mieville/Eole/Dorenaz:

At the base of the valley near the villages of Dorenaz and Veraynaz are a host of multi pitch crags on both sides of the valley. Dorenaz crag has a range of outcrops with most people climbing on the Gaillands-like quarry area but also having the more adventurous upper areas (not the best rock). Mieville and Eole on the other side of the valley can offer a bit more shade and have generally better rock quality and harder routes. The easy approaches means multiple can be done in a day. Eole also has the 20+ pitch route L’Amour that links up to Pissevache above.

Mieville: Terry (5c)
Mieville: Pili Pili (6b)
Eole: Elle m’a Vire (6a+)

Pissechevre:

Further down the valley towards Montreaux is the Pillar of the Pissechevre. This features compact climbing similar to the crags before but in a striking position, jutting out towards the centre of the valley. The routes here are a little longer than the other crags and make a nice day out.

Le Pilier (6a+)
Farinet (6b+)

Petit Dent du Morcles:

A unique experience, the Petites Dent du Morcles is the mountain sitting above the Pissechevre and is a geological anomaly. It is made up of many different striations of rock type and the routes here can feel pretty adventurous. There are routes of all grades, with a lot of the best being put up by the prolific Remy brothers. Having a long approach, many pitches and involved descent, this is a full day out!

Fleur de Pierre (6a+)
La Forteresse du Vide (6b+)
Oceana (6c+)

Miroir d’Argentine:

Probably the best known multi pitch climbing destination in the Canton of Vaud, the Miroir d’Argentine is a massive slab of rock situated high in the valleys above Villars. It’s host to around 15 routes that cover the grade range and being 12 or so pitches each, provide long days out, coupled with the involved descent back down a loose path. Climbing on the vast slabs can make you feel pretty small especially when coupled with the amazing views over Solalex and towards the Dents du Midi. The climbing is pretty high quality and the friction good!

Directe (5c)
Remix (6a)
Zygofolis (6b)
Mamba (6c+)

Pierre Avoi:

The Sembrancher valley, from Martigny up to Grand Saint Bernard, has a range of multi pitch crags, most not particularly fantastic. Some of the more interesting ones (Pain de Sucre, L’Amone Slab) are a little far away for this list, however, one that is reachable and worth a visit is the Pierre Avoi. This rocky pinnacle sits above Verbier and overlooks Martigny and the whole Rhone and is easily reachable with a short walk from the lift system or road pass that isn’t dull with the nice views. Not somewhere to go for repeated visits but overall a cool feature to climb.

L’Arete (5c)
Edelweiss (6a)

More information and topos for these routes can be found on Camp2Camp, the Chamonix Rockfax, Gilles Brunot’s Arve, Aravis and Giffre guidebooks, Carnet des Escalades app and Plaisir West.