Chamonix Intro Alpinism
Mini-guide to some of the best introductory routes to Alpine Climbing around Chamonix
The first of a series of four articles that covers Alpinism in the Mont Blanc Massif across the grade spectrum – this one looks at the best entry level routes around the area – good options for a first alpine experience.
These tend to be in the PD/AD range and like the AD/D list I have divided them into day hits and multi day affairs to give an idea of commitment value within the bracket and for help with planning logistics. Most of these routes will be predominantly snow or scrambling based skills wise – the routes that require rock climbing tend to fall into the higher grades.
For British people reading this, note that what is normally defined as a ‘Scrambling route’ in the UK doesn’t exist by that moniker in Europe. Easier Alpine routes in the PD-D range will encompass what would be defined in the UK as scrambling but on a much bigger scale and is a natural evolution of the skills learnt in that environment – often with some snow skills thrown in.
Day Hits
A lot of the routes in this section are very popular and by nature should be doable lift to lift in a day. Therefore they will tend to be centered around the Midi, Skyway and Plan d’Aiguille lifts.
Aiguille du Midi:
- Arete a Laurence (PD): The smaller brother to the Cosmiques climbs the ridge that hosts the Cosmiques hut and gives a short outing with exposure over the classic Cosmiques couloir and the Midi West Face. It can be often climbed as a warm up for the Cosmiques Arete.
- Pointe Lachenal Traverse (PD+): Pointe Lachenal doesn’t look like much from the Aiguille du Midi but has a big shere south face hidden away – meaning it can feel a lot bigger when on the peaks. The traverse of this small series of peaks provides some movement on steep snow, abseiling and exposure – a classic half day out.
- Cosmiques Arete (AD): The all time Chamonix classic has a lot going for it and is more technical than some of the other routes on the list but has an easy approach, no descent and is short meaning it is a good option for those looking for something a little more. Plus it has stunning views and exposure.
- NW Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul (PD+): The normal route up Mont Blanc du Tacul is a bit of a slog but a good first way to get to 4000m. The face has numerous seracs on it though so is definitely not the safest and the track through these changes year on year. It is a popular ski tour in late spring and is the first part of the Trois Monts route to Mont Blanc.
Skyway:
- Petit Flambeau Traverse (PD): The Petit Flambeau is very easy to reach from the Skyway by a flat traverse in less than 20 mins. The traverse of the peak involves first descending and then climbing up the ridge involving some scrambling and then moving on steep snow before finishing back at the col from where you descended.
- Aiguille de Toule (PD): The Aiguille Toule has various faces and ridges some mostly on snow and others more rocky that all provide short ascents to this peak that is a short walk from the Skyway.
- Marbrees Traverse (PD+): One of the classics of this area and a fun outing with great views down into Aosta and good exposure. It is most commonly done north to south but early in the season, when snow conditions are good, can be made harder by going south to north.
- Entreves Traverse (AD): The classic day hit of the area is a bit more of an undertaking than the others being a little further away and involving slightly more technicality but is a good option for those seeking a challenge.
Plan d'Aiguille/Montenvers:
- Aiguille de l’M (PD): The normal route up the Aiguille de l’M is a novel way to reach the summit making use of the ladders and the Col de la Buche. It can be quickest to approach from Plan de l’Aiguille and descend via the Montenvers
- Fretes des Charmoz (PD): This ridge that leads up to l’M is exposed scrambling similar to what you might find in the UK – it makes a good combination with the previous route or the Via Corda. Best done from Montenvers.
- Petit Charmoz Traverse (AD): A more technical option and a great traverse route that can be combined with the normal route of the Aiguille de l’M described above. It has great exposure over the Mer de Glace and good views up to the Nantillons glacier.
- Via Corda Alpina (PD+): Whilst not strictly off either lift and accessible from the valley floor, this bolted scramble runs from Le Bois up to the Buvette des Montets and provides a good exercise in moving together without the pressure of lifts and other factors in the high Alpine.
Aiguilles Rouges:
The Aiguilles Rouges has loads of options for this style of route and is a great place to train your skills for some of the rock at higher altitudes. I’ve listed some of the classics below but there are many more.
- Crochue Traverse (PD): This classic traverse above the Flegere lift area is a fantastic scrambling adventure with good views across the Mont Blanc range and a descent that encompasses the classic Lac Blanc. The Belvedere south ridge can also be tagged on at the end for more scrambling action.
- Index (AD): The SW ridge of the Index provides 4 pitches of technical scrambling up the small summit that sits above the lift of the same name.
- Dent de Fenestral (PD+): The W ridge of the Fenestral is a bit of a walk for the amount of climbing you get but isn’t likely too be crowded…
Others:
- Petite Aiguille Verte (PD+): Once a classic route of this genre but now a lot less frequented after the demise of the top lift of Grand Montets. The long approach makes this a big day out for a day hit but once the new lift comes I’m sure it will return to being busy.
- Glacier Milleu (PD+): The normal route on the Aiguille d’Argentiere is a classic outing on skis in the winter and spring when you can ski in and climb the top steep slopes to the summit and ski off. This can be done in the summer also but will require a stop in the Argentiere Refuge.
Overnights
At this grade not all the corners of the Massif are necessarily equal and there tend to be a few hot spots – generally some of the lower angled snowier areas. The main draw for a lot of people looking for an overnight at this level will be Mont Blanc via one of it’s normal routes, however, the Tour basin and Conscrits areas should not be overlooked hosting a range of decent entry level routes.
Tour/Trient:
- Aiguille du Tour (PD+): The normal route up the Aiguille du Tour is a classic first alpine outing that is predominantly glacier walking with a short scramble thrown in at the end to access the summit. Can be done in winter/spring too as a good ski tour with some scrambling to finish.
- Petite Forche (PD+): a classic steep snow or icy face climb that is a good first foray into the genre – often done as a combined effort with the following.
- Tete Blanche (PD): a small snowy peak at the back of the Tour basin that has a couple of short mixed ridges on it.
Talefre:
- South Face of the Moine (PD+): The normal route up the Moine provides fine scrambling and quite intricate route finding up the rocky summit at the heart of the Massif. The route is then reversed for descent.
- Nonne Traverse (AD): a slightly more technical, but short, route not far from the Couvercle hut provides a nice outing involving some climbing and abseiling on another peak in the Celestial chain.
- Point Isabelle (PD+): a remote outing that has a long approach but low technicality with most of the climbing on snow – it is a popular peak with crystal hunters.
Mont Blanc:
- Gouter Route (PD+): The most famous route on the list and probably the busiest is the normal route up Mont Blanc from France. Mostly walking on snow – it does involve the loose and sometimes dangerous Grand Couloir and can sometimes be tricky to get a hut spot.
- Trois Monts (PD+): The other popular route up Mont Blanc this goes from the Aiguille du Midi via the NW Face of Mont Blanc du Tacul and North Face of Mont Maudit to the summit of Mont Blanc often with a night in the Cosmiques refuge. The crux is Mont Maudit where the bergschrund can be problematic.
- Pope Route (PD+): The normal route up Mont Blanc from the Italian side is a long undertaking in a wild part of the range but with low technicality.
- Domes des Miages Traverse (PD+): the classic route of the Contamines side of the massif starts from the Conscrits hut. This snowy traverse affords great views across the Beaufortain and Arve valley and is a great reason to visit a different part of the Massif.
More information and topos for these routes can be found in the new Rockfax Chamonix guidebook (https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/chamonix) or across the JME editions Snow, Ice and Mixed volumes.