Best Of: Chamonix Goulotte Climbs
Mini-Guide to mountain ice climbing in the mont blanc massif
Chamonix has many different styles of climbing available at various different times of the year. From sport climbing to icefall climbing to alpine grandes courses – this little article gives a look at one style of climb that is popular from (some) autumns through to late spring – Goulotte climbing.
For this article, I am typically referring to goulotte climbing as ice and mixed climbs in the mountains that are climbable in a day often by skiing in and skiing out and where you are abseiling back down the line (mixed cragging). I am excluding very long routes of a mixed nature such as the Hypercouloirs and routes like Naia on the Verte etc. which, despite being of a mixed gully nature, typically involve alternative descents and have a level of commitment higher than the routes here (see Grandes Courses mini guide). The aim of this article is to hopefully provide some inspiration to what is out there if looking for this style of climb.
Mont Blanc du Tacul
One of the main and most expansive mountains for this style of climbing. The Triangle du Tacul, Pointe Lachenal and it’s East Face are all accessible from the Midi lift in skis in under 30 mins for a fast team. There is normally always something that is in climbable condition over the winter months even if it is just the classic Chere Couloir. The East Face is home to a lot of the big lines here with the classic Supercouloir being one of the plumb goulotte lines of the Massif.
Areas and Best Routes
Triangle du Tacul:
Not the most inspiring place to climb with the routes being pretty short, but fairly reliable for conditions and very easy access.
- Chere Couloir (D-) – classic, short route that is often very busy – often doable into summer.
- Temps est le Assassin (ED-) – three pitches with some nice mixed, can finish up the German Gully.
- E-Logik (ED+) – hard dry tooling.
- Other Lines: German Gully and Perroux Gully.
Pointe Lachenal:
South facing crag with some nice, shortish mixed gullies, easy walk back round to base of the crag. Pretty reliable for conditions in winter and early spring.
- Pellisier Gully (D+): easy classic of the crag with a distinct crux pitch.
- M6 Solar (TD): another classic – which isn’t M6.
- Tentation (ED): modern mixed route
- Other lines: Cecchinel-Jager and Star Academixte.
Gros Rognon:
More it’s own peak than part of the Tacul but in close proximity. It is home to three gully lines that are very quick to access from the Vallee Blanche. Pas d’Agonie 1 & 2 are more mixed and 3 is more ice based.
East Face:
Mont Blanc du Tacul’s East Face is one of the finest areas for this style of climbing in the massif with long classic lines overlooking the whole Geant basin. Some of the lines are pretty often in, some a bit more conditions dependent.
- Albioni-Gabarrou (TD-): the easier classic, often quite reliable for condition – often busy.
- Modica-Noury (TD): the harder variation to the above – goes quite dry.
- Supercouloir (ED-): besy goulotte in the massif? – best to wait for the direct start to be in.
- Pinocchio/Scotch on the Rocks/Slave to the Rhythm (ED): this trio of mixed climbs all start from the same ampitheatre and all provide good, hard mixed adventures. Scotch goes prettyy dry, the others really on conditions a bit more. All well worth doing.
- Other lines: there are a bunch of other goulotte lines of medium length on this face such as the Lafaille Gully, Hidden Gully, NonStop and Valeria/Chippendale near the Petit Capucin that are all worth a look if in.
Outlier:
- Bodin-Affanassieff (TD-): hidden round behind the Aiguille Saussure on the north face of the Tacul this goulotte is pretty unique but with difficult access.
Aiguille du Midi
The left wall of the Cunningham Couloir below the Midi bridge is home to some of the easiest accessible routes in this section and a good option in bad weather or if you don’t want to don skis. Normally something is climbable down here in the winter months – even if a little dry.
Best Routes
- Vent du Dragon (TD) – classic line of the sector with a couple of nice pitches. Needs ice on the main pitch.
- Jottnar (ED) – hard, modern dry tooling route.
- Other lines: Shit Route (toilet effluence line), Profit-Perroux, Ligne Cachee, Cosmiques Icefall (not in the same area -south facing and near the eperon so conditions pretty fickle)
Chamonix Aiguilles
There are a host of lines available of the Plan d’Aiguille lift and arguably some of Chamonix’s most famous. Conditions here can be a little fickle and need a good dump of snow followed by a warming for the snow to stick well to the rock so best in Autumn or winter months.
Areas and Best Routes
Pelerins North Face:
One of the best areas for this kind of climbing and a pretty intimidating place with no easy routes. When conditions are good here expect it to be busy.
- Rebuffat-Terray (TD+): sometimes called the Carrington-Rouse, this route is the most reliable in the sector and the difficulty can vary a lot depending on conditions. A classic.
- Beyond Good and Evil (ED): modern classic with a lot written about it already (in a very dramatic fashion). Most ascents go to the junction with the R-T and finish up this or abseil off.
Blaitiere:
- Rebel-Yell (TD): sometimes called the Mini-Blast, this route is a recent addition and a shorter version of a monster route put up by the GMHM (Blast) and is seeing quite a bit of traffic now.
Charmoz:
- Birthright (ED): another Mark Twight classic route that is very ephemeral but highly visible from town.
Other lines:
In addition to these, there are a host of more ephemeral routes on the Pelerins and Peigne north faces and a bunch of harder, new modern routes that have been put up in recent years such as Above and Beyond or Full Dry Love. There is also Cecile et Mesange on the Peigne.
Requin/Envers
A frequently overlooked area where conditions can often be quite good in the winter months. A decent level of skiing is needed for access and bergschrunds can often be quite bad (arguably the crux!). Can be made into shorter days by staying in the Requin hut.
Areas and Best Routes
Requin:
The north side of the Dent du Requin host a bunch of goulottes that can be accessed by skiing the Envers skis – a secluded and quiet part of the Massif.
- Ice is Nice (TD) – classic of the area
- Sorenson-Eastman (TD+) – a slightly harder alternative
- Other lines: Baumont-Gaby, Nouvelle Horizons
Envers:
- Avidya (TD+) – a big line on the Envers side of Charmoz that is equipped for abseil. Being south facing needs to be done in winter months.
Torino Area
More a collection of different areas accessed from the Italian side of the Geant basin there is often something to climb here from autumn to spring.
Areas and Best Routes
Maudit:
The bigger lines in this area and the longest to approach to are at the back of the Combe Maudite leading up to the Kuffner Arete. Often something is climbable in winter and spring.
- Fantasia per Ghiaccatore (TD+): the classic line of the area – hard to find in condition.
- Other Lines: Fil d’Ariane, Surcouf, Roger Baxter Jones and Lacrima del Angeli are all in the area and often in better condition.
Tour Ronde:
- Rebuffat Gully (TD-): easy, classic gully – climable quite dry.
Grand Flambeau:
Even easier access than the NW Face of the Midi, this newly developed crag is a good option in bad weather due to the 5 min approach and no skis needed. However, it is pretty chossy and Scottish conditions to glue everything together are advisable. There are a lot of routes here all using rather a lot bolts. A free topo can be found online.
Leschaux
The most remote area in this list and most of the routes here will require a night in the Leschaux hut winter room to climb them. There will almost certainly be little other traffic too whilst you climb!
Areas and Best Routes
Petites Jorasses:
- NW Couloir of Pointe Febrouze (TD-): most commonly climbed route in the area and fairly reliable conditions.
- Omega (ED): the classic of the area and a hard route where conditions are hard to find. Nick Bullock wrote a piece about this route.
- Other lines: L’Oeil au Buerre Noir
Aiguille du Tacul:
- Stupenda (ED): another hard modern line with tricky access.
Argentiere Basin
Really a massive area and home to a lot of climbs of this style. Access has been made harder by the loss of the top lift of Grand Montets meaning that sometimes a night in the Argentiere Refuge is needed for the routes towards the back of the basin. Often something is climbable here.
Areas and Best Routes
Pointe Domino:
- Petit Viking (TD-): a classic that has a lot of traffic – the bergschrund can be problematic.
- Madness Tres Mince (TD): harder route that goes quite dry.
- Charlet-Ghillini (TD+): harder variation to the previous that needs a bit of ice build up.
GM Ridge:
- Frendo-Ravanel (TD-): classic of the sector that gets pretty busy
- Pepite (TD-): one of the more conditions reliable routes.
Triangle of the Verte:
Less travelled than the other areas of this basin but home to a few hard routes like the Ravanel-Frendo and Batoux-Gerrand.
Tour Basin
Mostly the home of easier summer alpinism and haute routes, the Chardonnet has a bunch of gullies on it’s north face that just about fit the goulotte climbing style criteria. Whilst it is possible to abseil these lines its more common to top out and do the normal Chardonnet descent. Conditions can be good in Autumn and early summer.
Areas and Best Routes
Chardonnet:
- Escarra Gully (D+): classic gully line, mostly easy romping with a trickier pitch halfway.
- Bettembourg (TD-): similar to the above but often on blue ice.
Aravis
Whilst strictly out of the remit of this article that focuses on the goulotte style climbs in the Mont Blanc massif – the smaller Aravis range that is between Lac Annecy and the Arve valley is home to a couple of goulotte climbs that can be good options if the weather is bad higher up during the winter/spring months.
Areas and Best Routes
Pare de Joux:
- Aravicimes (D+): the classic line of the massif that is fairly easily accessible from La Clusaz. It is in at some point most winters.
Mamule:
- Rolling and Scratching (TD+): a harder line that receives far less traffic.
More information and topos for these routes can be found in the new Rockfax Chamonix guidebook (https://rockfax.com/climbing-guides/books/chamonix) or across the JME editions Snow, Ice and Mixed books. A lot of info is on CamptoCamp too.